Village Trip # 4

[llso]

Report # 20

 

Fourth Day of the Waxing Moon

Eleventh Lunar Month

Year of the Horse

 

Greetings:

I have made yet another trip to the Village. It is usually the makings of a good report. The occasion being Bpee My (New Year). The Thai people like to go home for the New Year. I decided to let Yang go ahead of me since she could stop in Bangkok to visit her family on the way. It also gave me some time to hit the streets here in Hua Hin with my friends, who are all in residence here now for the holidays.

 

I prepared for my journey. Knowing that I would be better off travelling alone at this busy time of year. I called the train station in Bangkok and asked them Sawadti Kap, mee roht fai pai Buriram ghlap,ghee meung. (Hello, do you have a train to Buriram and what time, Sir). They replied by asking me if I speak English.

They told me all the trains to Buriram were sold out. I had decided to take the train because I would not have to take a taxi across town to the northeastern bus station from the southern one.

 

 

 

I decided to go ahead and take the train to Bangkok from Hua Hin because it would be closer to the bus station, and put me on the other side of the river anyway. I called the train station here in Hua Hin, and they told me if I wanted a ticket I had to come now. My plan was to take the 2 AM train to Bangkok, and then catch the 8 AM bus to Buriram. That would put me there late afternoon. I knew from watching TV that the buses and stations were already getting packed, and it was only Friday.

I packed up, and put the house in shut down mode. When you leave home here you have to unplug everything because it is all 220 Volts, and fires are not uncommon.

It was just about getting dark. I went across the street and had a beer with my neighbor and two young guys from England that were renting out one of his houses.

They worked for Jaguar Motor Co. and invited me out on the town with them. Since my train wasn?t leaving until 2 AM, I said Ok. We all walked up to the highway, and couldn?t get a tuk-tuk. So I took a motorcycle taxi into town went to the train station, and bought my ticket.

 

 

 

 

I then walked over to my friend ?s bar, and left my backpack there. Later met up with them, and we hit the bars for a drink or two. As usual around midnight we wound up at the Hilton Disco.

 

I seen the girls from the bar, and thought I better go get my bag before he closes. When I got there he was there waiting for me. I took my pack, and caught a motorcycle to the train station. It was now about 1:30 AM. The man at the train station looked at my ticket, and told me that my train was an hour late. With an hour and a half to kill I was getting hungry. I walked back over to my favorite all night noodle stand, and had some greasy fried noodles with chicken. Sat there for a while talking to some people, and headed back to the train station.

 

The train arrived on time one hour late, and the hostess led me to my seat. It was the only vacant one in the second class A/C coach. I got in my seat, and it reclined like a big lazy boy. I was a bit upset I didn?t get one of the big terrycloth blankets like everyone else, but soon fell fast asleep. When I woke up the train was already in Bangkok going past all of the slums that line the track in Bangkok. It was just getting light, and it was interesting watching all of the people as we passed by.

 

 

 

 

The train stopped at Hua Lamphung station in Bangkok. It is neat because the train stops inside the station under a huge roof. I got off the train, and headed to the lobby.

 

When I got there I was still groggy, and started to feel the revenge of the greasy noodles. I found the restroom, and it was packed. Paid my 2 baht to get in, and bought a small pack of tissue for 3 baht. Now using a squat toilet in the train station is not my idea of fun.

 

Wandered back out into the lobby, and spotted an ATM. I was waiting for some money from the States, but nothing. I steeped outside to have a smoke, and was besieged by all of the bums that live at the train station asking for a smoke. I passed out a few smokes to them, and went to the street to look for a taxi. It was about 6:30 in the morning. I got in the taxi, and told the driver Mo Chit bus station. He asked me in Thai where I was going, and I replied Buriram. He then began to ask me if I had a wife in Buriram knowing there would be no other reason for a Falang to be going there. He then went on about how there would be no buses, but I just ignored him.

 

 

 

 

Once we got near the bus station the traffic was intense, and the police were directing traffic. I paid him, and he wished me Choke Dee (Good Luck).

It looked like scenes in one of those movies were all of the refugees are fleeing revolution or war. Inside there are about 50 windows to buy tickets to everyplace in the Northeast.

 

Most had 5 or 10 people. I looked for number 24 for Buriram, and there must have been a hundred or more people in line. I got in line and asked the girl in front of me if this was the line for Buriram. I was very tired and thirsty. The line moved incredibly slowly. I never saw another Falang the whole time I was there. Finally I reached the window, and asked for a ticket to Buriram. The lady looked over a couple of sheets, and began to write me out a ticket. She said Haa Meung something. Great 11 A.M. and it was now a little after 7 A.M. I went over to the 7-11 that is inside the station and fought my way to the counter for a pack of smokes, and a bottle of water.

 

I stepped outside for a smoke, and the people just kept coming. I was definitely a stranger in a strange land, but at least I had my ticket.

 

 

 

I called Yang, and told her I got a ticket, and should be in BR later that day. I decided to go down and check out where the buses leave from, and it was packed. Everyone had gifts, a popular one was a VCD Karaoke. There was nowhere to sit, and I found a spot against the wall to lean on. I knew that this was going to be an arduous journey, and was glad that I was alone. I went back to the ticket area, and found a seat. I didn?t want to leave because I would lose it.

 

Went back outside for another smoke and looked at my watch 9:30, later 9:35 it was going to be a long wait.

I wound up sitting in a small coffee shop in the food court area drinking coffee just so I could stay awake. About 10:30 I thought I better go check on the buses. The last thing I wanted to do was miss my bus. The guy there said you! Where you go. I go Buriram, next bus.

 

Eventually a bus came, and they said Falang, pointing to the bus. I got on the bus, and luckily was sitting next to some tiny little Thai girl, so I had plenty of room. I immediately passed out. A few hours later we were nearing Korat. It is the second biggest city in Thailand. The bus stopped, and I ran in for a quick bowl of Kanom Jeen, noodles again.

 

 

 

 

It was around 3 PM, and Yang called me. I told her to meet me in Buriram at the bus station at 6 PM. I knew it was about 2 hours to Buriram, and I should be there by then.

 

I fell right back to sleep on the bus. I woke up and the bus was stopping, everyone got off. I woke up, and got off to. The bus only stops for about 2-3 minutes. I walked over to a bench, and looked at my watch it was 5:30. I thought OK I will just sit here, and wait.

The motorcycle guys and Tuk Tuk drivers spotted me, and asked Where you go?

 

 

At 6 PM I call Yang, and she is still in the Village. I begin to get upset because it will take her nearly an hour to get here. I wait around for a while fending off the taxi guys assuring them that someone is coming to pick me up. Yang calls, and says where are you. I say I?m at the bus station. She says she doesn?t see me. I begin to get aggravated, and bring my mobile to the girl in the ticket office to speak with Yang. The girl tells her I am in Nang Rong, some 50 kilometers Away from Buriram City.

 

 

 

 

 

How could this have happened?

First when the bus arrived I was groggy, and got off with everyone else. I have been to Buriram three times before, and when the bus leaves Korat it doesn?t stop until Buriram. That is why I take the first class VIP bus. Because of the holiday the bus stopped at Nang Rong too this time.

Secondly the bus station and surroundings are exactly identical to Buriram, including the station, shophouses, and noodle stands. I?ve often said that you could be dropped off in any Thai town and they all look the same.

 

I did notice that the same exact wood benches were aligned differently, but just thought they had moved them around.

 

Thirdly, and most importantly my phone displays the cell that you are in. For example when you are in Hua Hin it reads Hua Hin. I have relied on this feature many times to tell me where I am, like a range finder of sorts. Once again because of the holiday it had a New Years greeting instead of the usual name of the locale.

 

 

 

 

 

Yang tells me that her, and the neighbor will drive to Nang Rong and pick me up. I tell her no he has already driven 25 miles to BR. Another 50 to Nang Rong, then another 40 to the Village, god knows how much he will want. I speak with the girl there, and she points to the old rickety local bus Roht Meh. These are old beat up orange buses with wooden plank floors. I?ve ridden them before. So I tell Yang to wait for me in Buriram. So an hour and 22 Baht later I arrive at the bus station in Buriram.

Yang, Mama, the Baby, and the neighbor are there to greet me.

 

I have them stop at a little store so I can buy some instant coffee. An hour later we arrive at the village.

Everyone is sitting around a small campfire, it is pleasantly cool in Issan this time of year at night.

It is Saturday the 28th my Birthday. As promised Papa came through with a big fish for my birthday. I am glad to see I will be staying in the new house. They have run an electric wire over for a light, and a few outlets for fan, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is a big improvement over the old house. It still does not have doors or windows, but they have hung some blankets over the windows next to the bed. The concrete floor is a big improvement over the dirt floor in the old house. After I eat I go to bed.

 

Next morning up at dawn with the chickens, I have to get up and get going because we need to catch the songthaew into town. Today?s mission is to see if my money has come, and buy formula, diapers, food, and of course beer. We arrive in town at the Market with Yang?s sister Bat. They are hungry because we had to leave before breakfast so we all head to the market for a bowl of Kanom Jeen (noodles) and quite a bargain at 10 Bt a bowl, 22 cents.

 

I tell them to wait there for me while I walk up the street to the Bank. When I get to the ATM guess what I have no money. I go back and tell Yang My Mee, No have. She says what can we do?? I only have about 250 Bt left on me. We walk out into the street, and she takes off her gold necklace and goes to the gold shop to sell it. She gets 6,200 Bt, around $150. For Thai women gold is like money in the bank. She says Mai Pen Lai, no problem I want us to be happy.

 

 

 

 

We buy everything we need some beer, and head back to the Songthaew. We make it back to the Village, and the women start cooking. I walk around checking out the new rice barn, and the house. Everyone is already starting to party for the New Year. Mama?s younger brother 1,2 call is there. They have a small TV, a VCD Karaoke player with microphone, and some big speakers. They go all around setting it up at different locations drinking Lao Khao, I call it white lightning. It tastes like rubbing alcohol but is very potent. They ask me for 70 Baht to buy another bottle, and I give it to them.

 

Later that evening after supper I decide it is time for me to join the celebration, and bust open the case of Beer Chang. I wind up sitting in the old house with my brother in laws, grandpa, and some friend of theirs.

We just about finish the case of beer. Over at the schoolyard they are having a big Morlam music festival for New Year. Somehow we walk over there, and it was a blast. I was like a dignitary. They got us a table, and brought us some beer. Some guy who is a big shot in the village came over, and sat with us. I got extremely drunk. At some point in the night I see Yang, and her sister they have come looking for me.

 

 

 

 

When I left the house she was sleeping. I was literally dragged away by them. It was probably for the best, cause I already had way too much to drink. That was Sunday night.

 

The next morning they wake me up to go to the rice field for Jahp Plaa, translated Grab or touch fish. I get up with a terrible hangover. I tell Noon my brother in law to wait for me to finish my coffee, and revive a little. We ride the motorcycle out to the catfish pond. They have this big tube like pump contraption that has a pulley that connects to the roto tiller thing they have, and they pumped all the water out of the pond. I was surprised to see how deep it was. They pumped all the water out until there was just muck about thigh deep. They all wade around in it, and feel for the fish, and throw them on the bank. I helped on dry land carrying the baskets of fish to the other side to be washed off, and then put in the big earthenware jars.

 

They were cooking some big fish right there on a campfire. They were delicious. We where out there for a couple of hours. It was amazing how much fish they took out of the pond. It is apparently a big annual event.

 

 

 

I have told some of the Thai?s here and they all say oh, Jahp Plaa. A guy came by in an old pickup down the trail, and Yang and I caught a ride back to the house.

 

Later that day they drove the cart powered by the roto tiller back to the house with a 55 gal. Drum, and two big earthenware jars full of fish. They were graded into small, big, and medium.

 

Later that afternoon they went to the store up the street and borrowed the scale. The entire time I was there people constantly came by to buy fish from us. Some came from neighboring Villages. Although most of them bought on credit, some paid cash or partially. Mama had a big wad of 100?s and 20?s. The big ones went for 60 Bt/kilo, and the rest for 50 Bt/kilo. Needless to say we ate a lot of catfish for the next few days. I actually got pretty good at grilling them. The Villagers were amazed that I knew how to handle the catfish because of the spines. I had to remind them I am not your normal Falang, I am a Louisiana swamp boy. Chow Beung in Thai, swamp people.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They are really quite industrious people. They make a comfortable living by Issan standard with all of their agricultural pursuits. I hardly spent any money on food while we were there. The rice harvest is in, the pond was full of fish, and there was plenty of ducks, and chickens running around. Someone butchered a hog, and Papa brought home a couple of big chunks of meat.

 

The next day was New Years eve. The party started early about 8 A M. Even Yang?s sister whom I have never seen drink asked me for 100 Bt to buy three big bottles of Chang.

 

The travelling Karaoke road show wound up at our house for part of the day. The lady across from us on the side had a big party for the children. She had music, and a fruit punch, and food. I really like her a lot. She is thirty something, has a herd of water buffaloes she forages around. She always has a big smile on her face.

She put on a great party. The adults were there too, and the men drinking Lao Khao. I even sneaked a few swigs until one of the women seen me, and went and got Yang. Whenever they see me drinking it I am reported immediately to the authorities. That day was the biggest party yet.

 

 

 

The interesting thing was that the party was basically over at sunset. In fact it was one of the quietest nights I?ve ever seen. Very different from the New Years celebration I?ve experienced before. Even last Year in Hua Hin the Hilton had a midnight Fireworks show.

 

New Years day was pretty much back to normal. A little bit of a party, but not as much as before. The only interesting thing was Yang?s aunt got really drunk and got into a big argument with her husband.

We did the usual village thing. Which consists of getting up at daybreak. Lots of cooking, and eating. Taking the cows out to pasture. Doing some cleaning and laundry, by hand of course. This trip I got into doing a few little chores. Especially since there was no building going on to keep me occupied. I took on the chore of keeping the water through in the bathroom filled up. Collecting some of the bottles and plastic for recycling. Helped Yang a bit with the cooking and the baby.

The day after New Years day I ventured into town alone. I had to get up early because the songthaew was leaving at 7:30 AM because it was a school day. There must be a girls high school on the main highway because the songthaew was jammed packed with a load

 

 

 

of schoolgirls in Blue ankle length skirts and white blouses with black buckle shoes, cute uniforms.

They all knew me, and called me Jerry, where you go? I replied Pai Muang I go to town. It is difficult for Thai?s to pronounce the ?L?. They get a real big kick out of me.

 

Once in town the songthaew passed the bus station. It was packed with everyone going back to Bangkok. We were supposed to leave the next day, but I decided to wait after seeing that. I went to the ATM, but could only take out 2,500 Baht because the machine had run out of 500 and 1,000 baht bills. It was only dispensing 100?s. I went and bought some more formula, and diapers.

 

I also stooped and bought some veggies, and a big chicken for around $3. When I got back to the Village Nuun my brother in law was building the water trough in our new bathroom, and installing the toilet. It is actually a sit down western style toilet, but no tank. You still have to flush it with the bowl. Sort of half Thai and western. It is dark in the kitchen and bathroom, and I think next time I will remove some of the tiles, and put in clear plastic for a skylight. I didn?t think of it that when we were building but I should have put some glass blocks in there as well.

 

 

The ones for the stairway, and around the front doorway are really cool. Someone came by and bought our last two bags of cement from us. Good thing because they were starting to get hard.

 

Next day did the usual thing. The lady with the som tom and hot dog on a stick cart comes by in the afternoon. I went around to the store for some noodle soup, Gwitiau. Later that night I woke up at about 4 AM and went outside to the bathroom. The stars were incredible, and it was chilly. Yang?s aunt that lives next door to us had a big bonfire going. The next day I asked them what were they doing at 4 AM. Yang told me that the baby was crying, and they built a big fire to ward off the ghosts. It just goes to show you how primitive and superstitious these people really are.

 

The next day I was sitting outside working on my tan when a whole group of older kids came up the road carrying some plates of food. They had come to see me. They took pictures with me eating the Thai Issan food, and asked me a series of questions like where do I come from, and do I like Thailand etc. I have had this exact same thing happen to me on the Beach in Hua Hin. It is some sort of assignment for English class were they go hunt down a Falang.

 

 

 

 

I always tell them when they are finished that will be 20 Baht. Yang said they asked her do they have to pay me. She told them no I was only kidding. They gave me the Wai; prayer like gesture and bow when they left.

 

The day had finally come for us to leave. We decided since the baby was sick to leave her stay in Buriram. They are well equipped to take care of the Baby, and have a 1 year old, and a 14 month old there already. We brought the baby to the Doctor and he gave us a bunch of medicine.

 

We left Sunday morning thinking there wouldn?t be any school kids. Everyone else must have had the same idea because the truck was full of sacks of rice going to the market. Everyone has just harvested so there is plenty of rice. There were also quite a few people heading back home to Bangkok.

When we got to the bus station it was pandemonium. Yang ran over to the VIP bus office, and came back and said the only bus leaves at 8 PM. I was ready to head back to the Village. She went and got in the line for the second class bus with everyone else. We were right up to the window when the guy got on a megaphone, and told everyone to go stand over on the other side of the station.

 

 

Yang grabbed me and said come on. The bus pulled up and there was a stampede to get on the bus. Yang was one of the first people on. I was getting knocked around with my backpack on. It is small, but very heavy when loaded. I made it on and Yang had the first seat in the front. The bus had no A/C, but it was cool anyway. There would be no drinks, snacks or reclining seat, but we were on our way to Bangkok.

At 160 Baht a ticket it was a good bargain too. The VIP bus is 250 Baht per ticket. It was nice to be sitting right up front because you could see all of the scenery.

The Driver and the two attendants immediately put on a Morlam VCD, and were cruising the backwoods of Issan jamming to Morlam music. Yang had stashed some pork satays, and sticky rice in a bamboo tube for snacks.

 

We drove past miles of rice fields, and small villages. About every couple of miles or so were groups of people with their bags standing on the side of the road trying to flag down a bus to Bangkok. It was pitiful watching them as we raced by. The attendant yelling we were full.

We stopped somewhere between Korat and Bangkok. Even the stop was second class it was like a giant noodle stand.

 

 

 

The bus arrived at Mo Chit around 3 PM, not bad 6 hours from Buriram to Bangkok. We caught a taxi to the southern bus station and got the 4:20 PM bus to Hua Hin. We didn?t get off in town, but got the bus to drop us off in front of the compound on the highway. We were home by 7 PM.

 

For some reason this was one of my best trips to the village. It was almost spiritual for me. I don?t know maybe because the novelty has worn off. Maybe because now I am accepted in the village. I have been there now in all different seasons, seen all of the cycles.

I have been going there now for over one year. It?s like I understand what it is all about now. It?s about family, friends, community, sharing. Being happy living a simple life. I?m not sure I could live there, but I know I could spend some time there for sure. They are some of the poorest people you will ever see, but only poor in the material sense. The climate is warm, and food is bountiful. They will never go hungry, and they will always have each other.

 

Sawatdi Bpee My

Happy New Year

LL