Village Trip # 5

[llso]

 

 

Seventh Day of the Waning Moon

Third Lunar Month

Year of the Goat

 

Greetings All:

 

This past month was the Thai New Year Songkran. The past month has been very hectic to say the least. This time of the year is the hot season before the monsoons begin. It is summer in Thailand if you can say that for a tropical country that is warm all year round. It is also in the customary fashion the summer vacation for the school kids. With the kids out of school Yang?s mother, sister, her daughter Poo (Crab), and another little girl Pooey decided that they would come to Hua Hin to visit us. I was Ok with the idea because we can use all of the help that we can get. The two little girls are a cleaning team and they also take care of the baby too. They are about 10 years old. I knew it would also be good for Yang to spend some time with her family. I was pleasantly surprised to see that they had come here at their own expense and Mama even sprung for some beer the first night. They also brought us two giant sacks of rice. I couldn?t believe that they had brought it all the way from Buriram on the train.

 

 

 

They made two sacks because they wouldn?t have been able to carry it all in one sack. It must have been well over 100 pounds. It was all I could do to carry one of them to my truck.

After all Yang and I get a portion of the rice harvest each year from our investment. It was so much that I had to buy a new clean garbage can to put it in. It is amazing how much rice that we can go through especially with a house full of people.

 

We had a nice time and it was really nice having a lot of people around to help with all of the chores and stuff. We went to the beach and the kids played. They stayed for about a week and then went home back home to Buriram. Of course I had to give them some money to go home.

 

Yang?s niece Poo decided to stay with us because Kwang was going to be going home in a week or so for Songkran, Thai New Year. We bought her a bathing suit and she met up with some Thai kids from our housing estate. She enjoyed swimming in the pool everyday here .

 

It was getting close to Songkran and I couldn?t go because I was busy working. I had to send them before the travel rush.

 

 

 

So the Wednesday night before Songkran weekend with a couple of thousand baht I put Yang, Jennifer(The Baby) and Poo on the midnight train to Bangkok. That Friday I had to leave for Bangkok for business on Saturday.

 

Now being that nearly every Thai person returns home for Songkran my neighbor (who will remain nameless) wife had also left for the countryside. I had mentioned to him that I was going to go to Bangkok for two nights. He said Oh Bangkok that he wanted to go too. A quick phone call to my friend the travel agent and with my name mentioned another room was reserved. So Friday morning off we go to Bangkok. Now with two wild and crazy guys on the loose in Bangkok we made the usual rounds. Beer Garden by day, Soi Cowboy and Nana by night. Hamburgers at the Hotel and late nights at the Thermae coffee house. I managed to keep my expenses somewhat in check. We had a great time and returned to Hua Hin early Sunday.

 

 

Now Sunday was the big kick off of Songkran. In Thailand the party starts early. We teamed up with a Scottish couple that were staying here on Holiday and wound up Sunday morning sitting outside the little shop on the highway drinking beer with some Thais. Hordes of Bangkok Thais descended on the sleepy little town of Hua Hin for Songkran. The big thing at Songkran is to have water fights.

 

 

They drive in the back of pickup trucks and with the huge earthenware jugs throw and splash water on everyone as they go by. People stand on the side of the road doing the same. They also smear talcum powder on your face too. Also everyone is really drunk and it is one big party atmosphere. There are refilling stations along the way to refill your jugs.

 

Somehow we managed to hitch a ride in the back of a pickup truck with some girls and rode into town. The traffic was backed up nearly halfway to our house. The closest thing that I can relate it too is Mardi Gras. At the main intersection in town the police redirected traffic to the back of town.

 

 

 

We jumped out and walked to the bar area near the beach. I was completely soaked and had wrapped my phone, cigarettes and wallet in plastic bags.

 

When we got there they had set up two huge speakers on the road and it turned into a huge block party. Everyone was giving me beer even the motorcycle taxi drivers that I know. Some really drunken Chinese looking girl grabbed me and started dancing with me. She was so drunk and Chinese looking that I couldn?t even look at her without getting cross-eyed.

 

They were playing all of the latest Thai pop songs. My neighbor, the Scottish couple and myself stayed out all night drinking and partying. They were staying right across the street from me and since I was alone they invited me over every morning for a Scottish breakfast. Ham, fried eggs and fried toast with coffee. He was a bit of a rough fellow with Thai tattoos and is a taxi driver in Scotland. We became great friends and they now send me email. That week I managed to go out nearly every night mainly because it was just so boring staying home alone.

 

 

 

 

I would go and hang out with my friend at his bar and drink $1 cheap Thai beer. Occasionally he or someone else would buy me a beer. I had budgeted myself 500 Baht a day ($10), this included beer, food cigs, and motorcycle taxis. I still had to send Yang around $40 a week in the Village for baby milk diapers and so she would have some money too.

 

Friday the 18th I had to do my three-month Visa run to Burma. .It is always an adventure in itself. One good thing about it is that I can buy some very cheap liquor and cigarettes and I mean cheap. A carton of cigarettes is 50 Bt, $1.19. Whiskey and gin at less than $2 a bottle and damn good stuff too.

 

So with that trip finished and my Visa renewed for another ninety days I arrive back home.

 

I enjoyed staying by myself for a while being able to go out and sleep without the baby waking me up but I was ready for Yang to come back home. For every week that she stayed in Buriram I still had to send her money too.

 

 

 

 

That was easy I just went and put money in her Bangkok Bank account here and she could withdraw it in Buriram City with her ATM card. I was cooking my own meals and pretty much staying home during the day. At night however I would venture out into town more from boredom than anything else. I really wouldn?t do too much mainly go visit my friend at his bar and drink cheap Thai beer till I went home. Maybe stop off at my favorite noodle stand for a bite to eat. Yang wasn?t worried about me going out because her spy network of friends were tracking my every move.

 

I didn?t have much to do for work except maybe make a few calls and send a few emails each day but that was going to change and soon. With Yang back in Buriram for the Holiday, my trip to Bangkok and Visa run all out of the way my only next big expense was to go to Buriram to bring them home. When she left she had her niece to go with her to help her with the baby. I would have to go there and help her with everything for her to come back.

 

 

 

 

 

I guess she somehow could have managed with the baby and her bag but I was ready for a trip to the village myself. Buriram is 400+ Miles away from Hua Hin but since you have to change over in Bangkok the trip takes the better part of one full day.

 

Ever since we essentially got stranded in Buriram last New Years I really don?t want to go there unless I have enough money. Although I can and have traveled all of Thailand on a very minimum amount of money it is not something that you want to do especially with a baby. So the days and weeks went by and Yang called me saying she thinks I have finished her and the baby. I tell her that I am trying to get some time to come to Buriram.

 

I still wind up going out every night or so except when I manage to go and visit some friends. We had a big party right here when my Scottish friends were leaving to go home. I brought over two bottles of the whiskey I had bought in Burma and we had a great party. The next day I drove them to the Bus station in my pickup truck and saw them off to Bangkok to catch their flight.

 

 

 

 

 

One night I was walking down the main Soi (street) in the bar area when my old girlfriend the university graduate called out to me. We lived together for nearly a year. Well as it turns out when she finished me or I finished her no one really knows for sure. She found a rich old guy to give her the money to buy a bar. So I decided to stop in for a beer. We started talking about the war and then she begins telling me that when Palestine was taken over by Israel that is when the Muslims began to dislike the west and America. I nearly fell off my barstool. It is hard enough to have an intelligent conversation with anyone let alone a Thai girl. She then told me how she had learned a lesson when she lived with me for nearly a year and that she is going to give up the bar and either return to school or work. She even bought me a couple of beers. She knows that I am now with Yang and that we have a baby and everything and that she had her chance with me. We had a really nice talk and now are friends.

 

 

The next night or so I decided to go there again to have a beer.

 

 

Well the reason that I am writing about all of this is that an extraordinary thing happened. In Thailand every bar has a bell, if you ring the bell you buy a round of drinks for everyone in the bar. It is a rare occurrence to say the least. In my two and a half years here it has happened only a few times. Well I?m sitting there talking to her and these Swedish guys ring the bell. Great a free beer. I?m not sure what happened next but these guys rang the bell again. When this happens there is a big roar of applause and it becomes a real party atmosphere. To make a long story short these guys rang the bell 7 times that night that?s right 7 times. That has got to be a world record. They must have had a bar bill of several hundred dollars. I wound up with a row of beers on the bar. At some point they stopped bringing me the Thai beer and started bringing me Heinekens. My Ex even came over and grabbed a beer out of the cooler and gave it to me and gave me her beer. The place was packed and the girls got up on the bar and started taking their clothes off. My Ex ran and shut the door and pulled the curtains closed. It was phenomenal.

 

 

 

 

 

I even bought a drink for the girl dancing on the bar. The one that before when I asked her in Thai where she was from she replied ? same place your wife?. You see everyone here knows me.

 

At the end of the night around 2 A.M. I was extremely drunk. I paid my bar bill 230 Bt, $5.38. I?m not sure exactly what happened next but good old Ex was going to ?take care? of me. She had one of the girls? ride me home on her motorcycle. They all live on the next street over from me so it wasn?t out of their way.

 

 

So there I was all 190 lbs. Of me clinging to some 98 lb. Little Thai girl on the back of a moped. The strange thing about it was that occurred to me the next day was that she drove me to right in front of my house and I had never seen this girl before in my life. As we say TIT, This is Thailand.

 

The next day it was the talk of the town. I found out later that their bar bill was over $400 US. Just another day in the life here, I was later questioned by some of Yang?s friends why I was hanging out in my ex?s bar. I was not too worried about it.

 

 

 

 

Because I?m sure that if anything had happened everyone would have known about it. I call it the coconut telegraph.

 

The next day I had a terrific Changover. I really needed to get to Buriram and bring Yang and the baby home. I had such a bad month with all of the expenses of sending Yang home, trip to Bangkok and on top of that had to do my Visa run.

 

I had to get to Buriram and retrieve Yang and the baby. So Sunday night with some monies in my pocket I caught the midnight 2nd class air con train to Bangkok. I had decided to take the train all of the way to Buriram. It was going to be a real experience and boy was it, despite it being the cheapest possible way to get there. I left Hua Hin and was on the way to Bangkok. The train seemed less comfortable than when I went to Bangkok in January for New Year. I had a bit of trouble getting comfortable and going to sleep.

 

Even though this time I got one of the big terrycloth blankets. I tried to be quiet ripping it out of its plastic wrapper as not to awaken the sleeping passengers. This train originates at the Malaysian border. Instead of using it as a blanket I rolled it up into a pillow. I once again experienced the phenomena of every time I travel having some Thai whether male or female cuddling up to me. Luckily this time it was a girl. Somehow I managed to go to sleep and woke up as we were approaching the Big Mango, Bangkok.

 

Soon we pulled into the main train station Hualamphong. I stumbled off the train with my very heavy but small backpack. I had two bottles of whiskey with me from Burma for Papa and the villagers. I also had brought some clothes for Yang because Thai people travel with a change of clothes if that. I made my way into the terminal since I only had an hour to catch the morning train to Buriram. I had checked it all out on the Internet before I left and knew the schedules, train number and departure time. I had also checked out the number of 2nd and 3rd class seats available. There are no 1st class seats to Buriram for obvious reasons. The area is nothing but peasant rice farmers.

 

 

The evening before I left there was 27 2nd class seats and 700 and something-3rd class. When I got to the ticket window the guy there told me 2nd class finished. Finished being a very popular English word for Thais.

 

Ok, so I had to get the 3rd class ticket, 107 Bt, $2.51. You would be lucky to take a bus across town in America for that much, much less than halfway across the country. So the real journey begins. I was a complete spectacle because Falangs that?s me can afford to travel at least on the bus. I?m telling you there wasn?t another Gringo in sight. I found my way out to platform 7 and waited for the train. Now these are narrow gauge railways much like the trains in America at the turn of the century, and about as old.

 

The 3rd class train car mine was car no. 5, seat no. 16 is very much like a cattle car. It has no air-con and hard bench seats. There are some ceiling mounted oscillating fans but that really doesn?t do much good. Luckily at that time of the morning it wasn?t that hot. I get on and discover my seat is one of the smaller bench seats made for two people. I find that I am sitting with some young Thai?s, a girl and two boys, more on that later.

 

 

The Thai people immediately start talking to me asking me where I am going. Sometimes I just play dumb like I don?t know any Thai. Actually my Thai has become pretty good. I eventually tell them that I am going to Buriram. I decide to talk to them in Thai to keep them from saying any disparaging remarks about me.

 

It is sometimes a curse to be able to understand Thai. I was riding on the Songthaew a while back from the market and a lady was going on about how Falangs are so cheap and ride the Songthaew and won?t pay for a motorcycle taxi. How we take up the space on what is their thing and that we are all a bunch of no good bastards, etc. I just played dumb and when I got off I said to everyone in Thai excuse me, I hope you all have a nice day and good-bye. You should have seen the look on her face when she realized that I had probably understood everything that she had said.

 

Well back to the train journey. I never realized that there are a whole bunch of neighborhood train stations in Bangkok. The train stopped every couple of miles or so and loads of people got on. I had moved to one of the bigger seats once we left the main station but was promptly booted back to my little seat.

 

The conductor came and checked the tickets and asked me to move. I tried to play dumb to no avail. An interesting thing about the trains is that there are vendors coming along trying to sell you drinks and food on the train. I eventually bought some grilled chicken livers on a stick and sticky rice asking for them in perfect Thai amazing all of the passengers.

 

Soon we left Bangkok and began to head into the hinterlands. I was really tired but couldn?t sleep. The only good thing about the train is that you can go stand between the cars and smoke cigarettes. The scenery was spectacular. There is an area heading to Buriram that is quite mountainous. It is the area of the Khao Yai National Park, Khao Yai in Thai means big mountain. This is a really remote area that is supposed to have Tigers and all sorts of other rare things.

 

It began to get really hot as the day went on and I managed to doze off a little here and there. As we approached Pak Chong I saw two soldiers walk through the train. I didn?t think much of it. When we left Pak Chong a group of about 10 Soldiers. The Tiger squad that wear black berets and some railway police came in the car and said in Thai everyone take down your bags were checking for drugs.

 

I was in a daze and sort of half asleep. The railway cop took my bag down from the rack and asked whose it was. I said it?s mine. He told me to open it up. Now the rest of the Thai?s just set there bag on the floor but they insisted on me opening mine up. They came along with a black Labrador drug-sniffing dog. He was more interested in sniffing the chicken livers on my fingers than my bag. The Thai passengers were trying to get him to sniff my bag. I got a kick out of how they were trying to get something on the Falang. The dog just sniffed around and they went on to the rest of the cars, it was a strange experience.

 

I was getting more tired by the minute and the trip took about 8 hours. We stopped in Korat and it was surreal. Outside the train were dozens of vendors trying to sell things through the windows. They sort of chant whatever it is they are hawking. It was eerie, like a bunch of ghosts or something. I knew that I was getting close to Buriram and called Yang to have the neighbor come pick me up in his old dilapidated pickup at the station in Buriram.

 

As I began to regain consciousness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I realized that the girl that was sitting on the bench across from me and putting her feet on the lap of the guy next to me was actually a ladyboy. The guy next to her was a ladyboy wannabe and the one next to me was their boyfriend or something.

 

Thailand is full of these ladyboy and there is no stigma attached to it. They work in stores and people talk about their relative who is a ladyboy. Sometimes the only way to tell is to hear them speak. I realized I had not heard the ladyboy speak one word. Another telltale sign is the Adam?s apple. Although some of them have it shaved. Luckily the ladyboy?s got off before Buriram. I immediately leaned against the window and fell fast asleep. If it wasn?t for some friendly Thai?s who woke me up and said this Is Buriram I would have missed my stop again.

 

The train only stops for about two minutes and I grabbed my bag and stumbled off the train. The train is very long and when you are waiting for someone you don?t know which car they are in. Papa had staked out the section where I was, I seen him and he took my bag. I was really groggy and walked down to where Yang, mama, and the rest of the family were.

I walked along to the old pickup and climbed in the front. The rest of the crew got in the back. We made the usual stop at the market to buy some food and veggies. I needed to stock up on cigarettes, instant coffee and look for some tonic water for the gin that I had brought. I could not find tonic water anywhere in Buriram so had to settle for some lime soda.

 

Yang also wanted to buy some fruit. It is the beginning of the fruit season in Thailand now. She bought some durian, which is a big green spiky looking fruit which has an awful smell but the Thai?s love it. One falling from the tree has actually killed people. Durian doesn?t grow in this part of the country so it is rather expensive. My very first trip to Thailand was in June of 2000 and I could not believe all of the strange looking fruit that I had seen.

 

So with everyone loaded into the truck and a few supplies we headed South out of town to the village. Just as we got out of town it began to cloud up with thunder and lightning. It then started to storm. Everyone in the back got soaked but seemed to take it all in stride. After all this is the beginning of the rainy season.

 

 

It was late afternoon when we arrived at the village. I paid the neighbor 200 Baht and thanked him for picking me up at the train station. Everyone came over to see me and I presented the two bottles of whiskey to Papa. I was glad to see that they had moved the refrigerator and TV from the old shack into the new house. They had also bought a sort of mattress for Yang and me well actually like a giant flat pillow. Yang?s sister had even bought me an ashtray.

 

We had a nice little party with a few drinks and the girls started cooking. Since I only visit the village every 4 or 5 months it is always interesting to notice the changes that have taken place. The lot directly across the street from our house had been cleared and a little tin shack erected. Yang?s uncle 1 2 Call?s house directly behind ours was sporting a brand new tin awning complete with metal frame. Mama had bought a huge earthenware water jug that was about 5?high and 5?around. I don?t dare ask how much she paid for it because there would be the implication that I would want to help. I was pleasantly surprised to se that they had moved one of the smaller jugs into our new bathroom and even though the water line was not connected I wouldn?t have to use the squat toilet anymore.

 

I was really tired from the journey and the drinks started to kick in so I went to sleep early. I had been worried that it was going to be too hot but with the rain that afternoon and the electric fan I was covered up by morning.

 

The next morning I needed to go into town to check my email, get some money from the ATM and buy some things for the baby. We walked up to the Songthaew stand and waited around for nearly an hour. There was a small travelling market there and it is also in front of the school. I also noticed the school had a fancy new fence and they had built a police station at the entrance to the village. Thailand is in the middle of a drug war right now with all of the drugs pouring in from the narcostate of Burma. A few months ago the policemen that patrol our Housing estate three times a day on their motorcycle were carrying a M-16. It really doesn?t bother me at all actually I think it is kind of cool. It reminds me that I?m not in Kansas anymore.

 

Anyway I?m standing there in the Freaking tropical heat a complete spectacle to all of the Thais who all know or have at least heard about the Falang in town waiting for the Songthaew.

 

 

Along comes Yang?s oldest sister bat on her bicycle whom I absolutely adore, she is such a traditional Thai woman. She tells me the Songthaew has Moht Louey. Which means it has already come and gone. I get a bit aggravated because it is Yang?s job to check things like that and these people actually speak Khmeer, Thai is their second language. I know about two words in Khmeer and no one will teach it to me. Khmeer is the Cambodian language, which is not surprising since Cambodia is about a half a day?s walk from there.

 

So I walk back to the house and have Yang go get the neighbor to drive me into town for 200 Baht, around $5 USD. I get into town and have him drive me to the Internet shop, which is full of young boys playing games because it is school vacation. I check my emails and see some threatening letters from my boss. I check my bank and of course no money. I still have about $25 left so head over to Bangkok Bank ATM then to the shop to buy formula and diapers.

 

When I get back to the village everyone is gone except Bat and Mama. Sombat tells me that everyone went Tee Naa, (rice field) to (Jahp Plaa), catch fish. I had told Yang that I was looking forward to eating some grilled catfish when I got there.

 

 

 

Bat offers to drive me out there on the motorcycle and I agree. When we get out to the rice paddies the loose sand on the trail is so dry and hard for her to drive on despite the rain the day before. We stop the motorcycle and walk the rest of the way. Along the way we see Jennifer and the kids playing under a clump of trees. I think Jennifer is really getting back to her roots here. I didn?t think babies could get a suntan but every time she spends time in the village she comes home darker.

 

Once we get to the catfish ponds and the little shack I see Yang and everyone else. Yang is covered in mud head to toe after wading in the pond to grab the fish. They are just getting ready to head back home on the tractor and cart which is fine by me because it must be 100 degrees by now. I decide to ride back on the cart with everyone else and we head back to the house.

 

Back at the house everyone starts to grade the fish into sizes and we start grilling them. I really enjoy this and the Plaa Duk are delicious especially grilled. That evening we all sit on the floor in the new house on mats and dine on a variety of fish dishes and veggies, and of course rice. It is just another typical day in the village.

 

 

 

That night Bat buys me a few beers and we have a quiet night watching Thai soap operas on TV and go to bed. Luckily it begins to rain and it cools off nicely.

 

The next morning I decide there is no reason for me to go to town today so I just spend a leisurely day around the house. I take a little siesta and wait for the water buffaloes to come home. The next morning I decide I had better get back home and we get the mailman?s wife to drive us into town. I stop at the ATM and with my fingers crossed my money is there. We go to the bus station and catch the 9 AM bus to Bangkok. I see mama and Papa off with a nice crisp 1000 baht bill($23.42) for all their trouble and off we go.

 

The baby does surprisingly well on the bus. I think the noise and motion kind of lull her to sleep. Except for a bottle of milk and one diaper change we soon are approaching Bangkok some 6 hours later. Quick stop in Pak Chong for a bowl of noodles.

 

I?m feeling pretty tired and we are going to have to go completely across Bangkok in rush hour traffic to the southern bus station. We probably wouldn?t reach Hua Hin till 10 o?clock that night.

 

 

 

I tell Yang what do you think about spending the night in Bangkok tonight. She replies in the customary Thai fashion ?up to you?. I ponder the question for a while thinking hell I can afford the extra $25 for a night at the hotel. I eventually call my travel agent right as we are pulling into Mo Chit terminal in Bangkok and book a room for the night. A 100 baht ($2.22) Taxi ride and we are at the hotel. All checked in hot showers and air con, cable TV.

 

I head down to see the travel agent to pay for the room and have a beer with him at the beer garden, which is right outside his office. I drop into the Internet shop next door to check my email. Yang calls me on my mobile as we had made plans to go the International 2 for 1 buffet at the hotel at 6 PM. I decided I might as well splurge a little since there is no telling when the two of us will be in Bangkok again. So I return to the room and her and the baby are ready to go. The buffet is fabulous with sushi, sashimi, salad, Thai and western food, grilled seafood, drinks, deserts, and coffee. Total bill 652 Baht ($15.14). Yang really loves Sushi that?s why I sometimes call her Yoko Ono despite the resemblance especially with her cool sunglasses on.

 

We return back to the hotel room for some quiet time and a little, Oh well.

 

 

I think I cannot just sit in the room so I feign needing to go send some email and go down to the beer garden and down a pitcher of Thai beer just taking in the enjoyment of being in Bangkok. About an hour or so later Yang calls me on my mobile and asks me what is taking me so long. I go back to the room and immediately fall asleep.

 

The next morning we get up at daybreak and decide to forego the free breakfast buffet included in the price of the room and check out. We wander out to soi 11 looking like a couple of refugees since we hadn?t planned on stopping in Bangkok. There we are walking with my backpack her little carry bag, a plastic grocery sack with everything for the baby and the baby too. We are even a bit dirty our clothes that is after coming from the village. I eventually find some kind hearted Taxi driver willing to take us across the river to the southern bus station at morning rush hour using the meter.

 

We arrive at the station at 7; 15 Am and get the 7:30 bus to Hua Hin. We got to Hua Hin at 10:15 really good time. Walked up the street to the market to buy some food since the only thing at the house was a few eggs and plenty of rice. Yang had to stop for a plate of roast duck and rice. Caught a tuk -tuk and were home by 11:AM.

 

LL

 

 

 

[anonymouse]

Just like to say I'm enjoying your village reports, keep them coming. In 5 weeks time I'll be back in my wife's village - a lot of what your writing reminds me of what I'm missing.

If you get the chance you should visit Khao yai national park, I visited earlier this year and it's a great way of spending a few days.

[Oldtimer]

What a really wonderful story of the simple pleasures of Thailand. Reminds me of a trip to a village up your way that I made many years ago.

 

 

If I was in Hua Hin I would be honoured to buy you a beer as you seem to really have a feeling for the country. Please keep writing if you can.

 

Thanks and good luck.

[spirit_of_town_hall]

I enjoyed reading that!

 

STH

[llso]

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to read the reports. I'm glad that you liked them. I have plenty more but have to tidy them up as they were originally for friend and family so I have to remove some personal and irrelevant stuff. I have regular reports including the one where my wife who was 6 months pregnant at the time and her parents, some panicky thai guy and myself got stuck in an elevator in BKK for an hour. Thank god for cell phones.

 

LL