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my evening with a LIKAY troupe.


pattaya127

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posted this in gen dis as a reply, but it should have been here first. I may edit a bit:

 

Even staying in Pattaya, you can witness a Thailand without whoring, doing what it does best, namely being thai. I just spent one of the greatest evening last night, 25 kms south of Pattaya (ok, better to have a bike to find out what's going on, away from Beach Rd and tutti quanti), in a little town just before Sattahip.

A fair was thrown in honor of a dead patriarch, and the homage-paying was last night. Both the religious and the profane mixed, as usual in these kind of affairs.

There was a procession following his coffin being carried to the temple, Wat Teppasat, mostly built with glass and mirror pieces, the whole edifice lighted like an UFO landing in a Spielberg movie.

Then the orchestra in the stage behind started rocking to mo-lam and luk-thung music, a dozen girls gyrating on stage to the plaintive singer's Issan snarl, but what was great is that I was invited by the LIKAY actors on the other side of the fair to join them in their dressing room all evening (which is actually the other side of the stage, behind the prop curtain).

 

A first for me, I was touched by their friendliness thru all the evening (i was over-fed, once again), and was able to witness all the proceedings and the costume changes for the 3 hours i spent there, transfixed.

I must say that approaching the stage and starting to hear the sound of the PII PAT orchestra, I had tears in my eyes as i had not heard that sound in a whole year, maybe some of you know what i am talking about.

GF mocked me, but she told me she also almost cried when seeing the coffin of the monk and the procession, as it brought her back to the day her father was buried in her village.

Took quite a few digital pix, would love to share them with anyone interested, and was invited to come see them again in sanam Luang, on the 31st. IMO, beats picking up your tab yet another evening on soi8.

 

PS:No need to say i was the only farang in sight all evening.

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Likay is interesting for me so I would like to see some pics, I'd like to know more about it's origins and what the stories and songs are that they sing. I used to think likay was from issan but seems it's from the central area of LOS. The steps, costumes and performances seem very formalised, they often have likay characters at morlam concerts who do not perform, just appear at the start and end. If you see them again could you ask them about any concerts in Jan, they would know about any decent morlam shows.That's the way I would like to go, same as the monk with lots of music and lights, beats a dreary crematorium send off!-peter

 

 

 

 

[quote

GF mocked me, but she told me she also almost cried when seeing the coffin of the monk and the procession, as it brought her back to the day her father was buried in her village.

Took quite a few digital pix, would love to share them with anyone interested, and was invited to come see them again in sanam Luang, on the 31st. IMO, beats picking up your tab yet another evening on soi8.

 

PS:No need to say i was the only farang in sight all evening.


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>I'd like to know more about it's origins and what the stories and songs are that they sing. I used to think likay was from issan but seems it's from the central area of LOS.<

 

Did a quick search and I found this for you.

 

Likay began in the reign of King Rama V. It is assumed that it was a development of a Muslim entertainment called pantoon.

more

 

http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/Congress/7905/likay.htm

Why "ask kheak"? should read Why"awk kheak " like the first paragraph mentioned.

 

http://www.kingdom-of-thailand.net/Entertainment.html

 

http://www.travelthailand.com/hokstory/dance.htm

 

Some nice pictures.

 

There's more, just do the search.

 

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morlam is not so easy to find in bkk as luktung, pity that place closed above country road saw some good shows there. Still have a place on the first floor but not very good. What I do is check out the big cafes to see who is on so I get a girl to phone villa and phra nam khow, there is one called dara on petchburi which I have not been to yet. Also I go to tankey Issan at rachada opposite the hollywood disco and then there is the veteethai concerts on sats at bang kae. Also, there is issan tawang deang to check and the place at suk 69/1, just past the post office is what looks like a cinema but they have a cafe and sell CD's, behind is a large open space where they sometimes have big concert. Check out the jintarafanclub site for concert dates, almost everyday she is singing -peter

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, Only just raed this, unfortunately too late.

 

P127, I wish you would have talked about that when we met the friday before xmas at Woodstock!

The next day, I went to an open air molam concert, probably at the place Peter described:

>and the place at suk 69/1, just past the post office is what looks like a cinema but they have a cafe and sell CD's, behind is a large open space where they sometimes have big concert.<

(thaT WAS the night of the dance contest, but I reckon I had more fun at my concert. It was an Issaan group that usually only tours in Issaan, and had its first performance in BKK (Near the skytrain stop after ekkamai).

I think I was the only Falang there, but the audience had a ball. Much more fun than tawaeng daeng.

 

Yes, I'd love to see your digipix, I'll send you a pm with my new email address. Unfortunately that saturday nite I left my camera at home.

 

BTW what is the URL for jintara's fanclub? And is it only in thai script ?(not so hot in that yet) Not neccesarily a problem, I'll get someone to translate.

I will probably be back for a few days in March or april, and would like to suss out concerts beforehand.

BTW does Siriporn's fanclub have a website too?

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