Jump to content

My November 2002 trip - Part 2 (Angkor)


UAL875

Recommended Posts

Now for the National Geographic segment of my journey -- a visit to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. Sorry fellow perverts, there will be few references to the Bangkok or Cambodia nightlife scenes in this post. Just my reflection on getting to Siem Reap and the beauty of Angkor and its environs. Ok where were we? It's Monday, I had put Jo, my wonderful Dance Contest date from Hollywood, into a taxi and started focusing on getting to Cambodia from Soi 15.

 

A little background. I want to see the world - as much of it as I can. Will I? Yeah, maybe if I quit my job and hit the road non-stop for the next 15 years. Unfortunately that ain't happening for at least another decade. But not a bad plan since I am only 35 years old and time is on my side. Newsflash: my boss was really pissy to me yesterday so maybe I am on the path to getting fired which could result in some exotic travel sooner than expected. Ouch. Anyways, Angkor Wat has been #1 on my wish list for over a year now and hearing that the town of Siem Reap is rapidly expanding to accommodate tourists due to more travelers wanting to explore Cambodia, well it was time to go.

 

How to get there from Bangkok? Well this ol' Internet is a powerful beast. I swear I really think anything can be found on it. You want to buy a pet monkey that dances to show tunes -- try Google. You want to learn about spy movies featuring Filipino midgets as James Bond types --there's a website critiquing said film genre. I am not making that up. So why shouldn't there be something on the Internet about getting to Cambodia? Well there is. Some guy who lives in Bangkok, who probably reads this board since he knows about Nana Plaza, well he decided to create and maintain a website about Cambodia including an entire section devoted to overland travel to Siem Reap from Bangkok. I sometimes wonder about members of this board (present company included) having too much free time on their hands but this guy takes the cake. He details the route down to the number of the ticket window in Mochit and the stall the bus leaves from. Feel free to PM me if interested and I will pass along the link to his site. Regardless, I owe this guy a beer or something because his directions and strategy were awesome. Cost me like fifteen U.S. bucks to get to Siem Reap from Bangkok.

 

How to do it. You take a bus from Mochit Bus Station which is located a little bit past one of the last stops of the Skytrain. To maximize time, one should catch this bus no later than 8 in the morning. The bus takes you to Aranyaprathet. This ride will cost you 180 bhat and takes about four and one half hours in an air conditioned, first class coach. For those of you who have been through Thailand, it is not the most scenic ride. The bus will leave you at a station in Aranyaprathet and from there you jump a tuk tuk for 50 bhat to the border town of Poipet. At Poipet you clear Thai and Cambodian immigration. With 20 U.S. dollars and a photo this should not take longer than 30 minutes. By the way, Poipet was pretty much a dingy place. One's first impressions of Cambodia would be very negative if solely judging it on Poipet. Although there are casinos being built there as I write this, it still is pretty much a cruddy hole in the wall. Lots of touts and young kids seeking a handout.

 

Next step, and probably the most difficult, securing a ride from Poipet to Siem Reap. The options that I knew of: (1) taxi (2) pick-up truck or (3) mini-tour bus. There are pros and cons for each but I have listed the choices in the preferable order based on my one time experience and reading that guy's website. That being said, somehow someway I hooked up with 5 guys from Slovakia and we were the last bunch that got swept into a minibus and were on our way. The cost of the ride is 200 or 300 bhat, I cannot remember exactly. The ride was one for the books as the road to Siem Reap is deplorable. It is like driving on the moon. For over six slow hours we were bumping along non-stop. My head hit the roof of the bus several times. I wish I had taken a pickup truck or taxi (or tank if given that choice) because those vehicles are a bit more durable and can navigate the conditions with less difficulty. But I was just happy to be going to Siem Reap without incident. The countryside is very scenic and I did not get bored at all looking out the window. This part of Cambodia really is unspoiled and a marvel to the eye. I will disclaim one last time that the ride is only for the adventurous, comfort is not part of the deal. I am in shape so I think that helped because space on the bus is at a premium. Anyways we pull into Siem Reap at around eight -- a little over 12 hours from when I left the Royal President.

 

I had reservations at the Angkor Saphir Hotel (which I would recommend) so I found a 20 year old kid with a moto to take me there. This was fortuitous because I hired him for the next three days, my smartest move. I don't particularly like having a guide or a schedule. I really dug having a kid who drove fast and knew his way around and taking me wherever my whimsical mind decided. In that way I saw most of Angkor, took a ride on Tonle Sap, and even went into the mountainside for half a day. My impression of Angkor is that it is a "must see", truly a marvelous place. I am not going to describe each area, there are plenty of picture books that can do that better. What I will briefly attempt is passing along some insights which made my trip memorable and will be helpful to anyone planning a journey there. By the way, you are better off waiting to arrive at Siem Riep to buy your guidebooks and Lonely Planets. Only $3 for a quality bootleg.

 

One needs to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat from the western entrance. Unfortunately that will require 5am wake up but it is worth it. My recommendation is to not gather at the entrance gate where everyone will be standing but instead walk ¾ of the way down the center path until you come to the ponds in front of the structure on either side of the path. The view is better. My other personal "must-do" is to allot serious time for Ta Prohm. This is the section left untouched where the temples have been overtaken by large trees and their roots. But the secret is to go at sunset. One evening I went to other ruins on top of another hill (can't remember the name, sorry) where everyone scoots in order to view the sunset. So if you want to stand around with hundreds of other tourists, particularly clusters of Japanese (you know the Japanese -- waterfalls, sunsets, and sunrises) and grandmas and grandpas from Munich and Manchester, then make sure you climb to the top of that hill. However, if you want to be by yourself, with only the creatures of the jungle and ancient ruins crumbling around you, go to Ta Prohm at sunset. I felt as if I stepped back 5 centuries. It's ethereal, calming, and a little intimidating especially in the dark -- that was my favorite.

 

Someone had asked in another post if they should bring along a Thai girl or date to Angkor. Well, that's a tough one to answer. I, personally, was happy that I did this trip solo. There is so much to see and one has to pretty much go non-stop to take in all the sights in a three-day window. Plus you are in Cambodia so it's hot as a motherfucker meaning lots of sweat and dust. Could I picture myself exploring here with a girl? Yes, certainly, but I am glad I had a few days on my own. In that way I was able to climb walls and ride motorcycles into the villages and mountainsides without having to consider another person's feelings or health. One other item of note is that I found the food in Siem Reap rather decent and there were several places to choose from depending on how full or empty one's wallet was. And internet access in cafes, at $1.50 an hour, was a good deal.

 

Anyway, my time in Siem Reap was winding down. I was scheduled to take a flight back to Bangkok Thursday evening but by Wednesday night my mind started to wander and I began thing about FP, the girl I picked up at CM2. So I changed my ticket to an early afternoon flight that landed in Bangkok at around 5 on Thursday night. Oh why couldn't I just enjoy the peace and calm of Angkor for a few extra hours instead of letting my mind being influenced by my libido... Part 3 of my report will be written with its usual zest for mayhem and will detail why returning early was a costly mistake and how indeed FP did fulfill her role as Psycho and Stalker... :eek:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 21
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Hi Ual,

 

good report.

I can fully back up the beauty of Angkor. It is a must see indeed.

 

When I was there a few years ago there was a bit of entertainment at night as well. I hung out at a big house in a beautifull garden with several Vietnamese girls supplying us with beers.

 

Cheers,

Limbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Says UAL875:

Some guy who lives in Bangkok, who probably reads this board since he knows about Nana Plaza, well he decided to create and maintain a website about Cambodia including an entire section devoted to overland travel to Siem Reap from Bangkok. I sometimes wonder about members of this board (present company included) having too much free time on their hands but this guy takes the cake. He details the route down to the number of the ticket window in Mochit and the stall the bus leaves from. Feel free to PM me if interested and I will pass along the link to his site. Regardless, I owe this guy a beer or something because his directions and strategy were awesome. Cost me like fifteen U.S. bucks to get to Siem Reap from Bangkok.


 

Please don't buy him any alcohol, he gets very silly when he drinks. But i do agree that Angkor is one of those places that blows your mind.

 

It is a shame though that certain people are ready to brand anyone who goes across the border as a sex monster, as like you i kept my willie in my pants on my trip a year and a half ago and it is a place that i will return to again (hopefully many times).

 

One thing to keep in mind if taking a TG to Cambo or Laos is that if you don't furnish her with travel insurance you are financially and morally bound to take the best of care of her if something untoward happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some guy who lives in Bangkok, ...well he decided to create and maintain a website about Cambodia including an entire section devoted to overland travel to Siem Reap from Bangkok.

His page Tales of Asia is no secret. I made the trip to Sieam Reap this summer following his advice. It was a perfect trip, faster and much more fun than taking the rip off busses from Kao San Road. By the way he is a nice guy. I met him by chance after my arrival in Siem Reap and we had great evening.:drunk:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Someone had asked in another post if they should bring along a Thai girl or date to Angkor. Well, that's a tough one to answer. I, personally, was happy that I did this trip solo.

 

I agree. Angkor is the biggest religious site of the planet. You need a few days only to visit the most important temples and some are outside the main area in the jungle. This means, you will have a hard time if you take a girl with you which is not so much into intense sight seeing. You'd better check this out before. Angkor belongs to one of the main wonders of the world and it would very bad to miss it because of a girl who becomes bored quickly. And I just try to imagine a Thai girl in platform boots or high heels trying to climb the stairs of the main temple Angkor Wat. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

kamui and all,

 

Actually I think most Thai ladies would love to come along for the trip to Angkor. My wife and I did Angkor Wat on our honeymoon July 2001. There are a few famous Buddha shrines within the complex that she was anxious to visit, besides the ruins and all that she enjoyed a lot. But yeah, it was hot, and she flagged a bit a few times due to the strenuous activities. Just keep it simple and play it by ear, and bring your favorite little Buddhist along for those long, ac chilled nights in the hotel room. :-) You'll be happy you did. It is an awesome (I hate that word usually, but it is an apt usage in this instance) place to visit and check out. We had a great time, and want to return to see some more of the area that we didn't get to see. Maybe we'll do a return visit this July for our second anniversary. It is an incredible site.

 

Cent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest lazyphil

<<I've never been to Angkor but from your report I got the feeling that I missed something. It's now on my agenda of the things to do>>

 

Yes indeed you should. Its truely magnificent, breathtaking and beautiful , I lost myself at Angkor for three days and will never forget it. In particular I enjoyed stumbling around the 'Jungle Temple', its mind boggling!

Its one of the places that you hear about that lives up to all the hype and superlatives. Grand Canyon is one of the few others that can I say that of.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cent,

maybe my commentary sounded one sided.

Of course it is merely an indiviual thing: most will like it, some don't and that's what I meant to check out before. I had this kind of experience in BKK during a one day trip. I dreamt of making a boat tour, but my BG did not liked the idea at all what I learnt when we arrived at the river. I had to cut the boat trip short and I think we both did not enjoy the day as much as we should have (a similar story happened to me with a dutch girl in Rome many years ago, she did not have any interest in visiting the historic sites and we decided to travel separatly after two days ::).

On the other hand, to travel with a really good companion (a nice Thai woman especially) it is much more fun than travelling alone.

 

N 400 (his nick is just to complicated to spell) gave a good advice to think of a travel insurance for the girl.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...