Meet the Family, Surin style...

[Coss]

We stayed at the Thong Tharin Hotel, Surin. Not bad for the price $30 for a triple, me the wife and daughter.

 

Essentially the pool was in good order and provided a respite during the heat of the day, I must remember to avoid this time of the year if going up country.

 

It's been 2 years since I was in LOS, and then it was only 10 days in Bangkok.

 

Last time I was out of the cities was about 5 years ago. And it has changed. I've no direct comparisons but the feel of the countryside, though still dirt poor, is vibrant and optimistic.

 

My wife's family form the nucleus of a small "ban nowhere" village about an hour north east of Surin. There are about 25 families resident in about 40 houses, sheds and lean-tos congregated around a very small cross road in the middle of the vast expanse of rice fields (I'm talking 7 hours by train through only rice fields) that is North East Thailand.

 

They're in the down time part of the season at the moment, just waiting for a little rain to soften up the ground and enable them to do the prepatory (sp?) work in advance of the planting season.

 

This means that around the crossroads, there are three trees that provide shade, under the three trees there are concrete chairs and tables, on the chairs etc are the residents of "ban nowhere". The senior men and their friends get shadiest tree, the second best tree is for the other men, and the least shady tree is specially reserved for the women and kids. Whiskey and beer under the first tree, beer under the second and cold water and soft drinks under the third.

 

My wife hadn't seen her family for 15 years and my daughter and I had never met them, so our arrival was met with some interest and celebration. Basically I lost the the wife and daughter to a small throng of old women and children for the rest of the week.

 

I was ushered to the second tree to drink beer with the second tier men. It was 8 am. Fortunately the habit they have of serving every beer or whiskey with lots of ice, means that the drinks are quite weak, and it was about midnight before I could take no more and fell into some valiant volunteer's bed.

 

During the day the father in law, spent a good deal of time checking me out, starting by merely observing me from afar and progressing to attempted conversation. I must have done something right as about midday I was moved to the first tree, and Sang Som whiskey. We'd brought a lot of food and beer and whiskey with us, which was fortunate as every man and his dog from miles around stopped in for a drink and to ogle the fat farang. I'm 115 kilos, that's about any three of them, so they were quit impressed by my size and the fact that I could lift the fridge we'd bought them without help.

 

Betel nut chewing was prevalent here, a small basket with the fixin's kept handy for anyone who wanted it. I thought momentarily about trying it, but as I did so a gob of red sputum flew past me and narrowly missed a chicken, sort of put me off.

 

We spent the next few days alternating between the hotel and the village, the high points are as follows:

 

Ate some raw buffalo blood and liver larb.

 

Bought them a DVD player and they played the DVD I had made of New Zealand, non stop and to everyone's delight.

 

Became acquainted with the fact that the father and his brother had had a nasty fight some years ago resulting in the father having no teeth and the brother having a good sized scar on his face. The brother was packed off home with a bottle of whiskey early on in the first evening.

 

Got taken to a temple ruin on the Cambodian Border, atop a large bluff, from which you can see Cambodian villages about one mile below. There were thousands of butterflies drifting about on the air on top of this bluff.

 

Discovered that Surin is too small for taxis and has only about two tuk tuks, the Samlors really had to work hard pushing me around.

 

The food at the night markets in Surin is excellent, no question.

 

Had a nice chat with a two star General in the lobby of the hotel one morning, he offered to show me some operation they were doing that day, but family commitments prevented me, pity.

 

Met the gregarious Cent and family, a very pleasant evening had by all.

 

Got a free eye test, and then had to resist pressure to buy 20,000 baht Gucci glasses.

 

On the final day the Steamed Pig Head was produced, apparently some sort of marriage and or introduction to the spirits ceremony. String was tied around the wrists, and I was introduced to the ancestors. One touching moment was when an old man was brought in to do the Khmer language part of the speech to the ancestors, as some of the ancestors could not speak Thai and had to be addressed in Khmer, a similar speech was delivered in Laos and one in what I think is called Sooaye, a regional dialect. And then there was whiskey.

 

Once it was all over I commented to my wife, that now I'd paid the Sinsot and been introduced to the ancestors, that she was my legal troth and she'd have to behave, curiously, for the first time ever, there was no argument.

 

I'm now back in Bangkok, off to Cambodia on Sunday to try and film some of the Mekong.

 

Cheers

 

Coss

[thai3]

 

 

Interesting stuff but one or two unusual apects I think. Could I ask how it is you were married without ever meeting the family and why the mrs had not seen them for 15 years? thats an awful long time for a thai not to see the family. Also, you say you paid sinsot but the description of the ceremony does not sound like you got married in the village.

Did you inspect the nightlife in the soi next to tong tarin? I see that there is what looks like a new hotel being built right in front of the bus station-peter

[Dumsoda]

Coss,

Great report and brings back many memories. It really is a "different world" up around Surin.

Normally hit town for a week or so each Xmas to visit the Outlaws, but missed last year. Will be back this year...already booked.

You're right about the food at the market, I recall an older katoey there that cooks the absolute best Pad Thai. Even saw a falang woman running one of those local "drink stalls" where the locals can buy Lao kao by the glass...certainly looked like she'd "done a few miles"...

Did you get to check out the fish bowl at the back of your Hotel??

The wife's uncle, a reasonably senior Army man in the area, took me on a guided tour of "local attractions" a few years ago. Your Hotel and also the Memorial Hotel, both had fish bowls out back, which we briefly visited for a quick inspection.

Ap nam and massage, he grinned and told me, but not do long long time..... me think he doth protest too much, but at the time my Thai was not good enough to work out if he was "checking me out" or genuinely wanted to play (On reflection, probably the latter, as long as it was at my expense !!)

Think I'll take him out for a drink this visit and see what happens !!!!

Maybe Cent can give us a more current update as my tour of inspection was 4 or 5 years ago now. Still in every visit, nothing much seems to have changed from the last trip.

 

Had a couple of big nights out the back of town at one of the local "night clubs" !! The fairy light places with the "caberet" style singers...quite a fun night really. Couldn't believe being guided into the parking lot (read dirt patch of vacant land) by a guy with a torch ...almost like an airport landing scenario.

Got inside and it was party central. Need some local support though, as I was the only falang in the place. Still I had cousins and friends (and my wife and sister in law) with me so everything was fine

Remember a funny scene when 1 of the cousins called over a singer to "sit with the falang" The boys thought it a great joke. The poor little girl was shit scared (probably saved her from ever going to Bangkok !!!) We gave her a drink and my wife stuffed a 100 Baht note into her bra and told her it was o.k., she could go. Bolted like a thoroughbred, much to the Boys amusement.

Ah, memories... still better get back to work or I'll never get finished.

Chock dee Dumsoda

[thai3]

 

 

where is the memorial hotel? I thought surin only had two main ones,the tong tarin and petchkasem.-peter

[chilli13]

Ahh the joys of thai village life. I'm pleased to hear there's a breeze of optimistism & why should't there?

Not sure what you did right as to move from three 2 to 1, but perhaps it was the strength of thanking no to betelnuts!

Enjoy

[Dumsoda]

Thai3,

I'm hopeless with directions, so I can't give you the exact whereabouts of the Memorial Hotel. I remember it's a little off the main block.

When we went there it was at night. I recall that accross the road was a large "stall" really well lit up, selling second hand coats and jackets. A whole heap of those copy Army battle jacket / camouflage styles.

The Hotel itself was quite large and at the entrance had posters advertising a caberet style show. (probably similar to the show that they do at Petchcasam Hotel)

We went down an "alley" way on the left hand side of the building (as you faced the Hotel) through a courtyard area and up some stairs into what was either a separate building or another "wing" Can't remember exaxtly, it's a while ago now and my memory fails me. (too many Dumsodas !!)

Once back "on the ground" I could find my way back, but would need to familiarize myself first as it's been almost 18 months since my last stint upcountry. If I tried to give directions here I'd only confuse everyone (as well as myself)

Again, as Cent seems to be the resident "local" he may be able to help out here......( Cent...your Aura will prevail if you can help out Uncle Remus find Joe's Garage aka the Memorial Hotel !!!!!)

Failing all, I will be back at Xmas and will (at great personal sacrifice) go back, check the place out completely, and write a full and (almost) complete Trip Report

 

Chock dee Dumsoda

[Central Scrutinizer]

Dumsoda,

 

I'm off to Hua Hin in the morning, but as the resident Surin man on the ground upon my return I will try to find this elusive hotel in Surin (which I've never used or heard of myself, being a Thong Tarin hotel fan mostly) and once found I will get their card and place the info here and in the hotel accomodations section as well. I do have the info for Thong Tarin and Petkasem Hotel, and a couple of the smaller cheaper backpacker type hotels in the city. Personally I find the Thong Tarin has it all going for it; price, pool, AC, king beds, restaurant in lobby, looks and cleanliness, internet cafe in lobby and coffee shop, as well as a large screen TV in the coffee shop area with UBC where you can watch baseball and American football games over a beer or coffee, etc., etc. But I will look into this after my holiday trip and report back gentlemen. I'm a bit curious myself; having never heard of this place over the years here.

 

I'll also check out the new hotel by the bus depot they are building. Looks to be a nice place, and big. I'll get their card when they open and some prices and pics and info and put it on the board as well.

 

Cent, off to the beach...

[Coss]

thai3 said: Interesting stuff but one or two unusual apects I think. Could I ask how it is you were married without ever meeting the family and why the mrs had not seen them for 15 years? thats an awful long time for a thai not to see the family. Also, you say you paid sinsot but the description of the ceremony does not sound like you got married in the village.

Did you inspect the nightlife in the soi next to tong tarin? I see that there is what looks like a new hotel being built right in front of the bus station-peter

 

Well Peter, it goes like this.

Wife goes to NZ 15 years ago for a job, meets me in NZ, we get married about 4 years ago after 11 years of sin, this is the first time Wifey has been back to Thailand, the village ceremony was light on pomp and big on whiskey and informalness, as we are already married, more of a show of face really. As to the nightlife, Cent was very kind and pointed out some places, but as I'm with Wifey, I'm not looking just yet, 14 days in LOS and not one bar I've seen (Gulliver's excepted).

 

Cheers

 

Coss

[thai3]

 

Have a nice trip the rest of the time-peter

[Dumsoda]

Cent,

Thanks for your offer to investigate and locate the "elusive" Memorial hotel.

I'm in no way recommending this place as an Hotel to stay at because I've actually never stayed there, just "popped in" on one occasion to inspect the fish bowl as part of my local "guided tour" by the wife's uncle.

In fact, I've never stayed at any of the hotels in Surin, always have to stay at "baan kee nok" and totally understand why the Thais sleep on the floor.....(the tiles are softer than the fkn mattresses...)

From observation, would agree that Thong Tarin looks to be the pick of the litter, always get the feeling that the Petcasam is somewhat "tired". Having said that, have eaten there a couple of times and thought the food quite O.K. (and the caberet hilariously entertaining...even though the performers seem to take it seriously)

Can't recall seeing the new development near the bus station but it's a couple of years since I have actually been there, as last trip I bit the bullet, flew into Buri Ram and arranged for the family to come and pick us up. I really don't like travelling by Bus over the (falang) New Year period and 7 or 8 hours on the train bores the shit out of me.

 

Enjoy your holiday at the Beach.

Chock dee Dumsoda