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Coss in Laos - Tuesday


Coss

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Off to the morning market, I bought 3 kilos of Laos Coffee Beans, and a decorative Crayfish Shell, all painted and lacquered in a display case. Again, seafood, a million miles from the sea.

 

The morning market is filled with the same sort of tat you'll find anywhere in south east asia.

 

The National Museum was interesting, a few standard exhibits of cave men etc. And then the vast majority of the material was a history of Laos, dealing with how the Laotians overcame the Thais, French and the the US. Finally the struggle to become recognised at the UN as a free and independent country.

 

I guess I should have known that the Communist Regime would slant things their way. And photo after photo went something like this:

 

Evil French torturers repressing innocent Laos villagers.

 

Magnificent Laos Heroes, capture French prisoners of war.

 

US imperialists enslaving children.

 

US imperialists in a hurry to leave Laos.

 

Victorious Laos Heroes vanquish imperial dogs.

 

You get the idea.

 

I have spent only a short time here and I have a feeling that the Laos people could care less if we come here or not (we = tourists). They are polite, friendly and courteous. And everything takes as long as it takes. Efforts to engage in conversation are met with politeness but no great interest. The ones I've met are lovely, but they seem to have no interest in any thing non-Laos or anything at all for that matter.

 

It could be that the history of the place as they understand it, means they've understood that we are all capitalist swine. Or it could be that their aspirations are smaller and closer to home, certainly Thai TV holds their attention where nothing else seems to.

 

Or maybe it is just that in a city over run with back packers, lean tanned and smelly, the fat white guy is just not quite the thing to engender excitement.

 

Certainly there are NGO types, well versed in commanding respect. There are French tourists who seem to feel they own the place (apologies Frenchies for the sweeping generalization). There are a requisite smattering of western lesbians, who scowl at me just like at home. And only a few like myself, older interested white and male.

 

Another G&T, Nok sparkles on cue. She lets me take two photos. I promise to email them to her care of the guest house. Again, polite, compliant, but no enthusiasm. Just the beautiful smile, the demure eyes and the sparkle.

 

I would come back here for two reasons.

 

The first to try and dig a little deeper into the Laos personality, to see if I can get closer to them.

 

The second to see Nok smile again.

 

But I have the feeling that they are looking only as far as tomorrow.

 

There is a lot of development going on, the country is filled with the latest in 4 wheel drives, in the country side, every now and then you can see a palatial mansion under construction. When compared to Thailand 20 or 30 years ago, it looks the same, but I'm not sure Laos will progress as far in that time.

 

There is a pair of Geckos, who have staked out a lighting stand just outside where I'm sitting. The four lamps are atop an ornate conglomeration of wrought iron and attract many insects and the two Geckos are feeding constantly. They must be male and female as one is slightly smaller (the male I presume) and from what I know of the Gecko, the male is very territorial, so the other must be his mate. The lights must be prime feeding territory and the Geckos are quite fat.

 

This a safe place I feel, the kids that I see are free to run here and there, no one seems concerned about their safety, they are well behaved and cute. Though all the shops and buildings have impressive iron mongery that protects them in the night, the feeling is that once every thing is locked up tight at ten or eleven the town goes quiet. When I came back late, about 1, one morning, a gentle rapping on the door gained me admission, no raised eyebrows and the street outside was deserted.

 

Coss to Bangkok tomorrow.

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